28 November, 2018
We arrived to Brussels armed with information for how to leave the airport on foot, and found our way to a small pub nearby in Cafe’t Hoeskske. There we drank Chimay and ate a cold sausage dish while waiting for the friends we were staying with to get out of work. The pub owners also permitted us to bring in kebab from a nearby shop (since the kitchen was closed) while we hung out, which was nice.
When he was finished with work, my friend Jean-luc came to pick us up. I met Jean-luc at a professional event way back in 2009 and we’ve stayed in touch since. Once back at the house we got settled in and had a home cooked dinner with Jean-luc and Geneviève. Over the next several days we got to have several family dinners, including with their two children, which was really lovely.
The next day we took the train into town to do a little touristing. We took a walk around town and to see the famous Manneken Pis, which is a small statue/fountain of a boy peeing that has become incredibly popular, as you can see by the quantity of tourists. He even has a huge wardrobe of clothes (he was dressed in a blue robe the day we visited him), with some of the garments having been gifts from other countries.
From there we walked further to the Grand Place, which is the central square in Brussels, and it has some truly epic and beautiful architecture, including the City Hall which is the largest building on the square.
Right off the Gran Place we went to the chocolate shop Leonidas, and got some freshly made Belgian chocolates, which were delicious. We ended up preferring the more traditional chocolate and caramel focused flavors, and were less fascinated with the fruit flavors, though we did give some a shot.
Next up was a visit to Jeanneke Pis, a small statue/fountain of a girl squatting to pee, though this one isn’t as popular as Manneken Pis, but does get quite a few visitors nonetheless.
She is also adjacent to the Delirium village, where there are several bars and cafes run by the Delirium brewery (you know it as the one with the pink elephant). We stopped in and tried the Guillotine, Tremens, and the Christmas brews. We agreed that the Christmas was the best of the set.
That night back at home we got to enjoy a dish known as “Raclette“. This involves melting cheese over potatoes, accompanied by deli meats and salad. The modern way to do the melting is a fancy contraption with little wedge shaped trays to put the cheese in for heating. It is a cold-weather Christmas time food, so it was a little early for it, but it’s the kids’ favorite, and for good reason. It was wonderful.
The next day we went out for a run with a local running club, which was on a picturesque trail through the woods. It was cold, but the foggy fall weather in the forest was stunning.
When we were home from the run and got cleaned up, we were in for a real treat: Geneviève showed us how to cook mussels! It involves mostly washing of the mussels repeatedly in the sink, discarding any that have broken shells, and then cooking them in a large pot with butter, veggies, and wine, and no added water. It was delicious! And something we will likely prepare at home assuming we can find a good supplier of mussels.
On our third day, we went to visit Atomium: a enormous structure/statue of unit cell of an iron crystal that was constructed for the World’s Fair back in 1958. (Can we have the World’s Fair back? It also gave us the Eiffel Tower.) I thought it looked really cool in the sort of grey hazy weather, even if it wasn’t the most comfortable time to be outside.
From there we headed back into city center to see the European Parliament Hemicycle. It’s free to visit, you just have to go through the security screening to get into the building. They have an app that you’re supposed to be able to use for a tour, but it was un-downloadable on the provided free wifi. Keep trying guys! We thought the hemicycle itself was very pretty and sat to enjoy it for a while.
Something I found amusing on the way out, and imagined couldn’t be a coincidence was the park adjacent to the hemicycle building with a bunch of ostriches with their heads buried in the dirt… except one. I couldn’t find a plaque, so I don’t know.
I did find a few articles online as I prepared this post, and one of them states that “No one seems to know anything about the 12 ostrich sculptures that stand in the Parc Léopold next to the European Parliament. Seven of them have their heads buried in the sand, while the other five are standing up [I didn’t notice the other 4 evidently]. One English tabloid newspaper saw the birds as symbolising the European Union. But they got the story wrong. The birds were put up as a reminder that the park was originally a zoo, founded back in 1850 but closed in 1900.” But why ostriches? Hmph. Not sure I buy it.
The next day we went to see the St Michael and St Gudula Cathedral, which is beautiful architecture and a lot of stained glass. There’s also a lovely pipe organ, though we did not get to hear it. Entry was free!
We got some classic Belgian snacks after that, waffles and frites (no, they’re not French fries!). Weirdly, there was this creepy frite statue out front of the shop that was exactly like one we saw in Egypt at a long-haul bus stop.
We then took a tour of the comic book route around city center. Comics are a very important part of Belgian culture, and there are many murals of famous comics all around town, as we noticed on the way to see Manneken Pis. I’m not very familiar with many of them, but I found a suggested route here and it was a nice walk. Here are just a few of the murals I saw.
That evening we met up for drinks at Brasserie du Lombard with Jean-luc, Geneviève, and my friend Anna, who also works in Brussels, and I am still kicking myself for forgetting to get a photo! Blast! But it was lovely to see Anna and to introduce her to JL&G, even though she couldn’t stay long. Afterwards we went to have dinner nearby at In ‘t Spinnekopke and enjoyed a delicious traditional Belgian meal (I got the boulets), complete with profiteroles.
On the way back to the metro we encountered the final of the pissing statues: Het Zinneke. This one is not a fountain like the other two, but it’s counted as part of the family.
The next morning we bid farewell to JL&G before heading into town. It was really wonderful to get to spend time with you guys! We had a great time, thank you so much for everything!
Our next stop on our journey was London, via Eurostar, but before our train left we got to go to lunch with a friend that I made in Japan, where we stayed to together at the Sakura House in Kyoto for several days. Kathleen doesn’t live in Brussels, but she was in town so we got a chance to catch up! Good to see you again!
After that, we hopped on our train and we were off for the UK!